Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, Costa Rica, is a colorful beach town on the southern Caribbean coast, famed for its reggae rhythms, coral-lined shores, and rich cultural tapestry. Drawing expats with its relaxed vibe, tropical beauty, and diverse community, Puerto Viejo offers a unique alternative to the Pacific coast’s surf towns. Whether you’re planning a permanent move or an extended stay, this guide provides the essentials—expert insights, accommodation options, and top activities to explore.
Here’s a pros and cons list for living in Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica as an expat:
Pros:
- Caribbean Culture: A lively mix of Afro-Caribbean, indigenous Bribri, and expat influences, with reggae music and spicy cuisine.
- Beaches Galore: Playa Negra, Punta Uva, and Playa Cocles offer swimming, surfing, and postcard-worthy sands.
- Warm Climate: Tropical temps hover at 75–85°F (24–29°C) year-round, with refreshing trade winds.
- Nature Rich: Rainforests, Cahuita National Park, and Jaguar Rescue Center bring wildlife (sloths, toucans) to your doorstep.
- Affordable Living: Generally cheaper than Pacific coast hotspots like Tamarindo, with lower rents and local food costs.
- Expat Community: A growing mix of Europeans, North Americans, and free spirits fosters a welcoming vibe.
- Laid-Back Pace: A chill, “no shoes, no shirt, no problem” lifestyle suits those seeking simplicity.
Cons:
- Remote Location: A 4–5-hour drive from San José, with the nearest airport (Limon) an hour away and limited flights.
- Higher Humidity: The Caribbean’s wetter climate can feel sticky, especially during the rainy season.
- Work Restrictions: Foreigners cannot work locally without permanent residency or a rare work permit, relying on remote work or savings.
- Rainy Seasons: Heavy rain hits May–June and Oct–Nov, with potential flooding and muddy roads.
- Basic Infrastructure: Unpaved roads, spotty internet, and limited healthcare (nearest hospital is in Limon, 1 hour away).
- Tourist Surge: High season (Dec–April) brings crowds, raising prices and noise levels.
- Petty Crime: More prevalent than in quieter towns, requiring vigilance with belongings.
How to Research Moving to Puerto Viejo
Before settling in, spend at least a few weeks in Puerto Viejo to soak up its Caribbean flair. Rent a spot, mingle with locals and expats, and test the daily rhythm to see if it’s your fit.
Where to Stay When Researching the Area
Lodging options range from beachside retreats to budget stays, giving you a feel for Puerto Viejo’s diversity.
- Luxury Stay: Samasati Rainforest Bungalows – Luxury lodge with spa services and an outdoor pool.
- Mid-Range Comfort: Oasi – Oasi feels like its name, a true oasis for rest and recharge. Beautiful gated garden setting on a quiet street just a short walk from downtown Cahuita, restaurants, and the national park main gate.
- Budget-Friendly: Casita Zen– An apartment located in the rainforest and just 5-minute drive to the closest beach and grocery store. And, about 2 kilometers from there to the town of Puerto Viejo. .
- Vacation Rentals: Casa Caribe – A private jungle bungalow for a local taste.
Things to Do When Researching the Area
- Explore Town: Bike or walk the main strip, checking eateries and shops for cost insights.
- Test Mobility: Rent a bike (the local favorite), walk, or drive to navigate the area.
- Meet Expats: Chat at Bread & Chocolate or beach bars like Lazy Mon.
- Shop Locally: Visit Super Negro or small markets for grocery prices.
- Try Services: Stop by the clinic, ATM, or pharmacy for essentials.
- Live the Day: Swim at sunrise, sip cacao at a café, or dance to reggae to feel the vibe.
Top Activities in Puerto Viejo
Puerto Viejo thrives on beach, jungle, and culture. Sampling these activities previews expat life here.
- Surfing: Ride waves at Salsa Brava or take lessons at Playa Cocles.
- Snorkeling: Explore coral reefs at Cahuita National Park or Punta Uva.
- Jungle Hikes: Trek Cahuita trails for monkeys, sloths, and waterfalls.
- Wildlife Rescue: Visit the Jaguar Rescue Center to see rehabbed animals.
- Beach Biking: Cycle the coastal path from Puerto Viejo to Manzanillo.
- Cultural Nights: Enjoy live reggae or calypso at local bars like Johnny’s Place.
- Food Tours: Savor jerk chicken, rondon stew, or patacones at roadside sodas.
Banking & Finances
Opening a Bank Account
Banco Nacional and smaller co-ops serve the area, though options are limited. A passport may work, but residency often eases the process.
Managing Money Internationally
Expats often use foreign accounts, withdrawing cash from ATMs in town. Wise, Charles Schwab, and Capital One offer low-fee perks.
Currency & Exchange Rates
The Costa Rican colón (CRC) is standard, but dollars are widely accepted. Use ATMs or local exchanges for better rates than tourist spots.
Cost of Living Budget
- Rent: $500–$2,000/month (varies by beach proximity and amenities)
- Groceries: $250–$650/month
- Utilities (Electricity, Water, Internet): $80–$200/month
- Transportation (Bike, Walking, or Car): $40–$250/month
- Healthcare (Private Insurance or Caja): $100–$400/month
Final Thoughts
Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica, captivates expats with its Caribbean soul, affordable tropical life, and lush surroundings. While local work is off-limits without permanent residency, remote work or savings sustain many. Its humidity, remoteness, and seasonal rains might not suit all, so visit first—dive into the reggae beats and beach days to decide if Puerto Viejo’s vibrant charm is your expat home.